Chicago’s former self

I finished the epilogue to “the Devil in the White City” longing for more.

That’s how good the read was.

The architects and builders reached out to the sky, and in Ferris’ case, taking the people up with him for an amusement ride in 1893.

The Fair (DreamLand) later inspired DisneyLand.

But not all was quiet on the lake front.

We had a Jack-the-Rippper type abducting and mutilating women orginally drawn to bright light and big city.

Near the closing of the Fair, the mayor got shot, turning the Closing ceremony into a burial and burning of man’s monumental greatness

(White City turned Black City).

White City as it turned out cast dark shadows.

America in the Gilded Age.

Full of ambition and aspiration.

World leader in manufacturing and masonry.

Builders and dreamers.

The sky was the limit (not credit limit as of late).

Later, we had the Wright brothers and Frank-Lloyd Wright.

But during that period, just Westinghouse and Edison (GE), birthers of electricity.

Just Buffalo Bill and Fair builders trying to “outEiffel” Eiffel.

They had a race of a thousand miles, preferably to arrive at the Fair on the same horse.

One fair attendee from Poland who had used kerosene lamp all her life, upon seeing the city of lights, uttered “It’s Heaven”.

Unfortunately, only the train track remains (with dark fiber routes lay dormant). The rest was burned to the ground, with no regret. It was not  the first time the city was in flame. (Mrs O Leary’s cow would kick the lantern later to cause the Chicago Great Fire).

America’s second largest city has its current mayor who left the White House for the White City.

Chicago who hosted the Democratic Convention and its bloody confrontation during the Vietnam War.

Chicago with its boderos and board rooms.

Chicago, a school of economics, which favors “Adam Smith‘s invisible hand”.

Chicago South Side, in contrast to the White city.

Chicago, the band, with “Doesn’t anybody know what time it is”.

Chicago Chicago, the musical and Chicago World Fair, a memorial of America’s Imperial Past.

Its future and America’s are so inter-twined that its leaders had once been a community worker before entering the White House.

Chicago, my first great city outside of the insulated Happy Valley. To have finished “the Devil in the White City” to me was like to have my first taste of that Polish sausage and sauerkraut, or like that Polish girl who first saw electricity: it embodies human greatness and its possibilities (and its need for redemption as well). If only we launched another mandate to complete a World Fair with ensuing deadline, or “ask not…what your country can do for you”. In both instances,  Michigan Lake or Moon Landing, America rose to the challenge and out-shined its own complacency and comfort zone.

Thu Thiem and Cu Chi

Both have tunnels, but Thu Thiem‘s has just been built and visited mostly by Viet natives.

Cu Chi tunnels however is a backpackers’ must-see.

Going through Thu Thiem Tunnel, you feel like you were in Louisiana or Baltimore.

It unveils the future of  Vietnam, where ferry workers now work as toll booth collectors.

District 2 is the place to watch.

Just as the old Las Vegas strip that gave ways to the Strip, or Sands imploded to hand over to Wynn.

(Maybe surviving “tunnel rats” can find work with companies specializing in collapsing old buildings.)

I am engrossed in “the Devil in the White City“, which recounts the masterminding and building of the Chicago World Fair.

“Landscape does tricks to the mind,” the proposal said (given its time frame of 1890, this was prescient enough).

Competing high rises are being erected along the main highway leading to Ho Chi Minh City.

Meanwhile, inside the alleys, people blast their karaoke systems to “torture” their neighbors.

When I grew up, only the weeks leading to Christmas that loud speakers were in full blast. Now the commoditization of music finds many outlets:  Bose speakers, mobile phones, computers and lap tops

The pull of glitzy city.

You have to have thick skin to survive daily commute and even thicker skin to survive your weeKENd (notice KEN, as in HEINEKEN). Beers are delivered in the back of scooters to the back doors of open-air pubs. Baby stools are placed onto the side walks: voila! open-air party. During the day, it’s the administrative Ho Chi Minh City, but at night, it’s Saigon side-walk.

The museum of wartime remnants now claims several prevalent locations.

The locals want to see new things like Thu Thiem Tunnel and Bana (bananas) Peak near China Beach.

Brad Pit and Angelina Jolie were here two weeks ago visiting the French equivalent of Alcatraz (Con Dao).

So foreign visitors want to see the esoteric, the locals exotic.

It’s a matter of taste.

Supply and demand.

The economics of travel and leisure.

Still hats off to those who were drafted to die as “tunnel rats”.

To both sides, what a way to die.

Not too long from now, the new Thu Thiem tunnel will be old hat.

By then, their children back from overseas with acquired new taste, will prefer  Cu Chi (the American part of being Vietnamese-American).

Thu Thiem or Cu Chi? It depends on how old and where you are born.

Mathmatically Vietnam

Berkeley is popular with Asian students. Last weekend, I heard that an acquaintance got accepted and would be travelling to Houston to start college.

But many young Vietnamese study abroad chose University of Chicago.

It is no surprise  that Ngo Bao Chau, the math wiz, pitched his tent there.

Windy city. Cold. Home of Oprah and Ebert, the late movie critic.

I spent two years in a Chicago suburb, with my long coat in tow.

And one of my recent jobs was with a company based in Chicago.

So, Chicago, Chicago. Memories of jogging along the railway, in freezing temperature. You got to be there to experience heartland America. You have to read “The Devil in the White City” to understand Chicago’s place in the scheme of things.

Sears tower is no longer called Sears. Nor is it now world’s tallest.

Chicago itself used to be America’s number 2 city.

Now, at least, U of Chicago might, in a few hours, have its Vietnamese faculty receiving the highest honor in Mathematics.

I blogged yesterday about “revving without a cause”, about urban youth in Saigon. Today, I feel proud to share the heritage with one of world’s math treasures.

I ponder what makes someone a genius, while others would flush their lives down the toilet. Don’t they know, life zooms by faster than the speed of their bikes?

Even the author of Future Shock (Alvin Toffler) admits that his prediction wasn’t nearly “fast” enough for today’s speed of change.  Bill Gates, author of  “the Speed of thought”, missed the importance of the internet and the web (I know they are playing catch-up with cloud computing).

Energy, matters, and motion.

Cultures and technology converge and collide.

Generations with restless dreams, and unmet aspiration.

Fashion TV fuels the fire, while in reality its audience couldn’t afford a decent lunch (which is better than its models who mostly starved themselves to death).

So young Vietnamese girls try out for Vietnam’s Next Top Model.

The drop-outs packed up to work as “PR”, nothing to do with the profession of Public RelationsTuoi Tre, syndicated through Yahoo Vietnam, ran a nine-part expose of the trade. Mostly about how young girls having to endure trade abuse just to get some tips e.g. old foreign man, putting kleenex in their chest, and pulling the tissues out as if their bras were a tissue box or the infamous tale of a gangster who used $100 bills, folded, to shoot at PR’s like young brats would at birds.

In this boiling hot-pot, I have found mixture of the good, bad and ugly.

Math wiz, born to be wild, and modern-day Geishas. All here, and now.

Some thoughtful folks would chuckle, yet end up de-sensitized because life is what it is. Yesterday’s enemies become today’s best friends.

And most surprisingly, it’s not our friends who know us best. It often is the opposite. I am thinking of the McCain (warship) once docked at China Beach.

I am sure someone on that carrier know the ins and outs of Da Nang’s terrains.

All quiet now on the Eastern front. For now, the nation stands still awaiting the news. Big news. All of a sudden, numbers and math become chic here.

And for once, I breathe a sight of relief. The audience is tuning in to a show other than Fashion TV or World Cup. They are tuning in to await Nobel-equal Fields prize for Math. It may very well be one of our own, Ngo Bao Chau.

http://vnexpress.net/GL/Khoa-hoc/2010/08/3BA1F68C/

As of this edit, Bao Chau indeed got the prize which mathmatically puts Vietnam on the equation (better than known for beer consumption).